Back to the day job...

I am now over one-third of the way through my Malawian adventure, pretty incredible really as it honestly feels just like yesterday that I was saying goodbye to my friends in Wetherspoons and traveling to Heathrow. Having said that, if I look back at all the things I have done in the past two months and how much I have changed the way I live this is also hard to believe. For example, I am now completely used to teaching a 40 minute lesson, cooking on the coal burner, washing clothes by hand and used to going to bed at 9pm for a 6am start! There are things that I am starting to crave though, silly things like iced-buns, Gavin and Stacey and a shower. But there are definitely things that I will miss when I get home; I don’t know how I will live without a plate full of rice every evening and the endless amount of smiley children that are around everywhere. Maybe I should do a Madonna and start adopting random Malawian children?

I have realised that I haven’t actually told you much about my placement and what I do on an average day so I will tell you what an “average” day is in my life at the moment! Each morning I get awoken at 6am by my alarm, although I am normally awake as my body clock is getting used to the early starts! I quickly make myself breakfast which consists of a jam sandwich and remember to take my malaria tablet – all important stuff! At about 6:45 I make my way over to the staff room which is about 50 yards from our front door, and then I panic for the lessons I have during the day!! Everyday I have 4 lessons out of Maths Form 3, Commerce Form 1, Business Form 3, English Form 1 and Life Skills Form 3 and lessons last 40 minutes. In my Form 1 class there are 35 students whereas in my Form 3’s there are just 17 as most people move to a better school once they pass their JCE’s in Form 2! The school day ends at 1:20pm but I am normally finished by 12 noon. Lunch is normally either another jam sandwich or the leftovers from last nights meal! On Monday’s after school it is sport and I go to the local football field which is about 3km from us and join in with the football training until 4pm or so. On Tuesdays I have Scrabble Club and Thursday’s it is Business Enterprise (I will go on to describe them later on…). Also on Monday’s and Friday’s there is a school assembly at the end of the day, in which all the school is bundled in one classroom ready for the teachers to arrive. Assemblies start with a song from about 6 students who have simply incredible voices – I am going to record them next time! And then the headteacher gives a sort-of sermon from the bible and then gives out notices. Assemblies normally last about 30 minutes and close with everyone singing the national anthem – again, beautifully sung! At around 4:30pm we start cooking on alternate days, we have to cook nice and early as it gets dark at 6:30pm and cooking in the dark isn’t fun! It normally takes around 1 ½ hours from starting cooking to eating which is much improved from when we arrived. Once we have finished eating then I will either plan lessons, read my book or eat biscuits – I normally end up doing the latter two! We have 3 buckets that are our lifeline, we leave 2 out to collect rain water and make sure one is filled up with water from the bore-hole just for drinking. In an average week I would wash my clothes once which takes around 40 minutes, however I am still pretty rubbish at removing stains (I hope mum can save my clothes once I get home!). Over the past couple of weeks I have not been washing myself at home as it takes too long and is so unrewarding – instead I wait until the weekends when I go down to the lake and take my shampoo and have a wash/swim! It may not be very hygienic but it’s the lazy way of living!

We live in a little village called Fulirwa which is very tiny and about 15km from the nearest town of Ulewa. Fulirwa only has a few small shops that sell soya pieces, soaps, eggs and of course cokes so we have to do most of our shopping in Ulewa. The “centre” of Fulirwa is a strange little outdoors bar which always has around 5 or 10 men getting completely hammered on alcohol sachets, no matter what time of the day! I walked past there at 7:30am on a Tuesday morning and there were 2 men who were completely wasted, drunkenly chatting to me. The road from Fulirwa to Ulewa is even worse than Isle of Wight roads as it is just a dirt track with many, many potholes! If you are lucky enough to get a truck or bus then the journey can be done in 30 minutes but recently, due to the petrol crisis, vehicles are coming harder to find and normally I have to travel in using bicycle taxis which take around 1 hour and are completely unsafe! I normally make the trip in on Wednesday afternoons to pick up some groceries and then again at the weekend for whatever reason – normally to get away from the village!

Over the past couple of weeks it has been all about teaching and getting ready for exams coming up next week. Teaching is going well now, I love my Form 3’s and there are so many characters in the class… there is Gertrude who sits at the front and answers all the questions – loudly! There is Steven who is such a joker and larks around all the time, but is a good student; Samsung who tries his hardest but will never be quite there in terms of academics. There is a row of quiet girls who I am starting to think are the brightest in the class, Neema and Merina in particular who are always getting good grades! My favourite subject with them now is maths as I am confident with the stuff I am teaching them and I can actually feel them improving all the time. My Form 1’s are also lovely and teaching Commerce to them is good fun as they are starting to pick up what I am saying and applying it to other things. The class seems like there is a massive split between boys and girls, the boys answer all the questions and are on-the-ball all the time whereas the girls sit quietly and seem to need extra help all the time. I keep wondering whether this is because they are shy or whether this is the case all across Malawi as boys are educated more at a younger age, who knows? Anyway, teaching English is a struggle… they seem to have a strange mix of knowledge as they know some tricky stuff but then sentence structure isn’t easy for them. Their spelling always amuses me as they always get their ‘r’ and ‘l’ mixed up… I gave them a spelling test and all got “play” and “pray” the wrong way round and a couple of interesting ways of spelling ‘rubbish’… “labech”! But overall teaching is going well and I am fairly confident about their end-of-term exams.

I have started two after school clubs which I am quite excited about. The first one is Scrabble Club, which is going well. I found four Scrabble boards in the schools library and thought it would be a good thing for the students to learn. On the first club day we had 7 pupils turn up and then the day later we had 17 show their faces, which was a bit tricky as we only have room for 16 on the games. The younger kids in form 1 and 2 aren’t great at all but at least they try, they make simple words like ‘are’ and ‘me’ but can’t seem to grasp some of the rules of the game. However the form 3’s and 4’s are getting quite good at it which is excellent as the game helps their English tremendously! I have started a Scrabble Championship, the winner of each game gets 10 points, 2^nd gets 7, 3^rd gets 3 and 4^th gets 1… they seem to lovely the idea of competition but I still need to think of a decent prize for the winners at the end of the year. The other club I have set up is called “Business Enterprise” and we are basically pretending to set up a little business. So many of my form 3’s want to go into business but their general knowledge of the subject is terrible so I thought I would try and give them some practical experience. We are creating a school tuck-shop and in the coming weeks I will be teaching them how to write business plans, budget, do cash-flow forecasts etc. This idea came from Miss Jones and Miss Reed, my business teachers all the way back in year 10 when I pretended to set up a business back then – so thank you! They have carried out market research and found out what the students what to be sold in the tuck shops and they have since made colourful graphs showing the data. We have decided job roles: manager, sales, marketing and HR and next up I am teaching them what a Gantt Chart is! Let’s hope they do well in this and at the end of the year they can give a presentation to the school and what they have done.

My birthday was definitely the start of the rainy season… it may have been about 2 months late but the rainy season is now here, which is great news as their crops were beginning to fail again. It rains just about everyday now, from small spots of rain to giant storms – one of which we had on one Sunday which was excellent as the rain filled up our 3 buckets within one hour. The rain was so intense that time that every path became a stream and our back yard was under about 3 inches of water, which was too tempting not to go out and play in. The temperature doesn’t seem as vicious as it was before and I can feel my tan lessening as the days go on – hopefully it will improve again once we are on holiday. Everyone seems to be relieved that the rains have eventually come, and so they should be as the vast majority of people around us are farmers and their lives depend on this rainy season… long may it continue.

Since we have moved to our new placement I have looked in envy at Chloe and Elizabeth’s cooking. All they have is a wood fire with a few pots and pans and yet they are able to make cakes, scones and flapjacks. So over the long-weekend that we had I made it my challenge to try and emulate their successes. Whilst in Mzuzu I bought some flour and sugar as well as some mandasi mix – and excitedly came home with my goodies. Cooking on a coal fire is different from cooking at home, instead of just chucking the cake mixture in the oven and leaving it to cook on 180 degrees for 20 minutes; you have to make two fires. A small fire at the bottom, then put your tin on the fire and then make a larger fire on top of the tin… this took some time to get sorted but eventually I did it. It wasn’t the most precise cake I have ever made as we have no measuring devices so I just bunged in the ingredients and hoped for the best… After about 20 minutes of worrying and stoking the fires I lifted off the lid and there was a cake! Like a proper cake! And it tasted like a cake, a proper cake. You have no idea how proud I was – 1 month ago I didn’t know how to start a coal fire and now I am baking cakes!! I made my second cake later in the week, this time it rose properly and tasted incredible, particularly with a layer of strawberry jam on top! My next challenge is to make mandasi’s which are balls of deep-fried dough – the ones you buy from bakeries and on the street are delicious so I will hopefully be able to make them soon but after failing at making pancakes the other day I am quite worried and don’t want another cooking disaster on my hands. I will update you with how my baking skills go in the next blog!

We have also made a great addition to our dinners in the evening after we have found soya pieces which add to a meal well. They are about 40% protein which is excellent news as we had been lacking protein desperately from our cooking. Instead of just boring rice with a tomato sauce we now have rice, soya pieces and a tomato sauce with peppers, onions and garlic – getting fancier all the time! We have bought a lot of fresh spices that we are experimenting with; Anthony likes to put a lot of chili powder in his sauce I have noticed!! All the time our meals are evolving and my cooking ability has improved dramatically which is excellent, considering I have 4 years at University ahead of me! Every time I go into a city with a good market I get excited about all the food on offer, last week I picked up some carrots and lemon from Mzuzu. Next time I may try and involve cabbage into the meal at some point which will be a nice change. Also, yesterday we had a new arrival to our household… the headteacher needed more space in his house to fit his 11 children that he is looking after, so he bought us a dining table and five chairs. The deal is perfect, he gets more space and we get furniture which is incredible! After just 5 minutes of the table being in the house it was full with food that was previously ant-infested on the floor. We are now eating our meals at the table, under candle-light… how romantic!

We are starting to get a few more animals in our house which is always interesting. We still have a tone of ants in every room and we are still trying to work out a way of getting rid of them. Our most successful way of killing the ants so far is with a lighter and deodorant and burn the annoying things! This worked brilliantly until the flame got out of hand and completely burnt all my arm hair off. But recently more and more animals have been flooding in, first there was a mouse in some water we left on the floor. I woke up early on a day off to find this mouse struggling to get out of a washing-up bowl we had left on the floor… Anthony had to deal with this one. Then there was Ed the millipede (named after Ed Miliband) who was MASSIVE! Anthony thought it was a snake at first but when it turned out to be just a millipede he removed it from the house. The other… more pressing issue we have now is a scorpion! We saw it crawling around my feet the other day and ran to put on our shoes, by the time we got back the scorpion was gone – now we have to wear shoes all the time instead of comfy flip-flops which is a bit annoying! As yet our house isn’t as bad as the one we left back at Nkhata Bay – no infestation of mosquitoes or bugs but it’s getting there, slowly.

It is coming to the end of the term and therefore we have been busy preparing end of term exams for our Form 1’s and 3’s. I have five classes in total and I have also been typing up the exams of the other teachers onto the school laptop which is long-winded but harmless. The exam season started on Wednesday and goes on for one week, as soon as I finish marking and writing a report card for all the students then the holiday begins… we are hoping to be on the move on the Thursday or Friday! We have left all the planning to Jen and Julia, which has been difficult for me as I love planning but I can trust them to come up with an awesome plan – and they have succeeded. So the plan… 9 of us are meeting up in Lilongwe on the 24^th March and staying the night, then heading off early in the morning on a bus into Zambia – could be interesting! The bus continues all the way to Victoria Falls which will take a day or so, we may have to stay over night in the capital of Zambia, which is apparently pretty dodgy! Anyway, we intend to spend a few days at Victoria Falls – seeing all the sights and doing some activities like bungee-jumping or white-water-rafting! We may also possibly jump over the border to Zimbabwe to see the falls from the other side, apparently worth a visit. Then we will head back through Zambia on a sleeper-train to a wildlife reserve which is said to be the best in Southern Africa! The plan is to spend a couple of days there doing safari sort of things before traveling back into Malawi and heading down south to Blantyre which is in striking distance of Mount Mulanje which we are hoping to climb. The ascent is quite tricky according to the guide book and will take one day to scale, spend one day on top and then one day back down again! After that the plans become a little faded, we may possibly spend a few nights at Cape Mclear and then head up to Chilumba on the ferry or I may go and do some independent travel – Mozambique is pretty close, and it would be another country ticked off the list of places to visit!! So overall the holiday is going to be pretty packed – just the way I like it, with an enormous amount of stuff to do… I really don’t have a clue how I am going to pack for a 3 week holiday that includes mountaineering and safari in just one backpack.

This weekend I am going to a camp down south for Alice’s 18^th birthday. Apparently it is a little village just like ours and nice and rural. I am meeting up with the Bwengu Girls (Sarah, Marcella and Jess) and traveling down with them as Anthony has been invited to the capital by the Irish Embassy for St. Paddy’s Day – I wanted an invite too but I don’t think an Englishman would be very welcome in there (particularly when we beat them in the rugby on the same day!) There should be a good few of us camping for the birthday party so it should be a nice weekend away before our real holiday starts!

I really can’t seem to get blog posts short anymore… this one I think is my longest yet and I have a feeling my next one could be quite a biggy too! Thank you for reading and if you have any questions then please comment and I will try and answer them next time. Also if you want to send me any letters then all are most welcome, just send me a quick email and I will give you my address! All letters will be replied to of course.

Hippos and cake.

Okay… please don’t be put off by the size of this post, if you have to then read it over multiple days, but please read it as I want to share with you the most amazing weeks of my life!

As I told you in the last post, we were going to go to Blantyre on Thursday morning after our lessons had finished, we left our little village at around 10am and started the ridiculously long trip to the far south of Malawi. After only 3 hours we were in Mzuzu where would catch the night-bus all the way to Blantyre, but first we met with the other northern volunteers and ate some rather wonderful food – I had an ice cream which was the first ice cream I have had whilst in the country. At 4:30pm we all bundled onto the night-bus (which did remind me slightly of the night-bus in Harry Potter) and got our seats for the 13 hour long trip. I ended up sitting next to English Anthony which was good as he also couldn’t get any sleep so instead we sat up all night and watched Bill Bailey on his iPod! After multiple stops for food and water we made it to Blantyre at around 5am in the morning, I was quite impressed with myself as I had managed to go 18 hours without going to the toilet at all! We all stumbled off the bus and walked to the resort that we would be staying at called Doogles which was about a minute walk from the bus. Doogles was a lovely place with many big dorm rooms, 2 bars, a TV, swimming pool and of course a pool table! It didn’t take long before the other volunteers from across the country started turning up and we sat chatting to them and discussing everything Malawi. Within 30 minutes I had remembered why I got on well with so many of them, as well as remembering why some of them annoyed me completely!! After a quick dip in the pool and lunch in the city we got the call that Hannah was on her way so we all hid behind the trees and jumped out of her when she arrived which worked pretty well and she really didn’t have a clue about her surprise party! After yet more chatting and swimming in the pool we got the alcohol out… in Malawi you can buy sachets of spirits that are 30ml and supposed to be 40% alcohol costing around K20 each (5p), so you can guess we stocked up well on those. After drinking only 4 of them I was fairly drunk, along with many other volunteers so we aren’t entirely sure they are actually 40%!!

Saturday was another chill-out day with lunch in the city (this time a pizza – my first in 7 weeks), randomly walking around the cities markets. I found a material shop selling a vast array of bright cloth and I thought it would be amazing to try and get a tailor-made shirt for me… so I picked out the brightest material I could find and then went to a street vendor who took my measurements and told me it would be ready in 3 hours. After 3 hours I went back to the man with great excitement and he handed over the shirt, which in return I gave him K1,500 for (£6). The shirt is perfect, a pretty collar shirt with pockets and everything – not bad for £6 eh? So good that I decided to go back on the Sunday I get another one made, this time it cost £4, pretty pleased with those purchases.

The Saturday and Sunday passed without too much happening, just more chatting and swimming and general relaxing. However on the Sunday evening they were showing the African Cup of Nations final in Doogles so of course I had to stay up and watch it. I had been 7 weeks without watching a game of football and my god how did I miss it! Everyone in the bar was supporting Zambia as they are on the border to Malawi so I felt as if I should follow the crowd, also Zambia were huge underdogs and the British love an underdog! The game was fairly boring but the crowd seem to cheer for anything, even everytime Zambia got a throw-in there were cheers from the 40 people in the bar. Well eventually the game went to penalties which were so entertaining, particularly when Ivory Coast missed their 2 penalties and Zambia went on to win. I was jumping up and down with Claus and the rest of the bar, singing and celebrating a great win, cars were hooting their horns and flags were being waved – I LOVE AFRICAN FOOTBALL FANS!

Anyway, we woke up Monday morning knowing that we didn’t have to go back home this week as it was our half-term holiday but we didn’t actually know what we wanted to do. There were a couple of suggestions of hiking up Mount Mulunje and going on a safari but no one seemed overly keen on anything. After about 3 hours of planning in the morning we decided to go and visit Mount Mulunje, but probably no go hiking as it takes a whole day! We got someone to drive us to the mountain and found a guide that would show us on a little walk to some waterfalls. The walk was lovely and peaceful but incredibly hot and it wasn’t too long before shirts started to come off. We came across the waterfalls after about 30 minutes of walking and we were instantly amazed, they looked to beautiful. We were told we could go swimming so one by one we all stripped off and jumped into the deep water which was so cold and fresh that it was perfect for swimming. There were 7 of us in total there, the 2 Anthony’s, Claus, Rakesh, Ebony, Jess and myself and we asked the guide if he could take a few pictures of us jumping off the rocks. I reluctantly handed over my camera and had to look away as he jumped from rock to rock to get a good view of us and the waterfall… we then spent the next hour posing from different rocks around the place and jumping off while he was taking the photos. After inspecting the 300 photos that were taken we were very happy and went off back down the mountain!

We got back to Doogles and checked on Sarah who was sick with malaria and unable to join us on our trip, I felt so sorry for her as we came back all ecstatic from our adventure. So to cheer her up I let her cut my hair – something she had been asking to do all weekend! When I asked how much experience she had with hairdressing she replied with a simple, “None…” Excellent.  Everyone gathered around to watch the mayhem unfold with my hair but she was too nice and didn’t want to mess it up. Before I knew it the scissors were in Marcella’s hands – she was less sympathetic to the situation I was it and decided to obliterate my hair with help from Jess and Ebony. By the time they had finished I was left with about 6 bald patches and hair so short I looked like I was from This Is England. Thanks girls. I was up at 6am the next morning and straight down the barbers to sort the mess out… he was quite amused with the condition of my hair but did an excellent job to fix it up.

On the Tuesday we still didn’t know what we wanted to do, some of us wanted to go back up north whilst others wanted to stay in the south for a little while. I decided that I was going to stay with Marcella, Jess and Sarah for the week as their plans seemed to fit mine but we couldn’t leave until Wednesday as Sarah was still feeling a bit fragile. No matter, this gave us an extra day of planning what we were going to do on our exciting adventure. Marcella wanted to go to a wildlife reserve; Sarah wanted to go to Cape Mclear whilst we all wanted to go on the ferry on Friday morning from Monkey Bay… we just needed a way to fit all of this into 3 days! Easy…

On Wednesday morning we were up at 5am and ready at the bus station at 6. Today we were going to Liwonde National Park which is about 3 hours drive from Blantyre. Once we arrived at Liwonde we phoned the safari camp we were staying at and they came down to give us a lift. They arrived in a 1940s war-like car that was all metal and clunky without any roof, it was brilliant! Riding around town in style! The safari camp was a 30 minute drive up a dirt track which immediately made us feel like we were in Africa. The camp itself was perfect with a big lounge area that had a wonderful set of furniture everywhere, a self-serve bar (something that really wouldn’t work back home), and 19 beds to the 4 of us as it was out-of-season! We arrived at 12 and within 2 hours we were back in the car on a safari! It was my first real safari (I add the word “real” in there as I have been to one in Animal Kingdom in Florida) and I wasn’t disappointed. There were animals everywhere, baboons, antelope fighting, lizards and many other animals that I don’t know the name of! Unfortunately we didn’t see any elephants properly; they were far in the distance but close enough to get us further excited. After 2 and a half hours we headed back to our lodge and had cottage pie for dinner (yes, my first cottage pie in 7 weeks too!) We were back up bright and early the next morning at 5:30 ready for a canoe safari at 6 in which we hoped to see some hippo’s. We had 2 canoes between us, Sarah and I in one and Marcella and Jess in the other along with a man to canoe us. We immediately found a problem as there was a small hole in the bottom of our boat and water was trickling in, however when we saw the girl’s boat we realised that we were lucky as they had about 4 holes around the boat. Despite the holes we set off up the stream, passing huge birds and beautiful sites as we went. Then we came to an open space in front and over the other side were a collection of small black dots coming out of the water. We headed for them very slowly and the small black dots turned out to be huge, fat hippos. There were around 12 of them and we kept of sailing closer and closer until we were about 15 metres away… at this point my camera was in overdrive as I was taking as many photos as possible of the creatures. Everywhere we went from then we found more hippos, we must have seen about 30-40 of them during our 3 hour canoe session. The whole thing was completely amazing and well worth the $20 that we paid!

After a quick breakfast at the safari camp we were back on our way again – this time to Cape Mclear which used to be Malawi’s top tourist destination but now it has been taken over by Nkhata Bay. We arrive about 5 hours later feeling quite angry as we had been ripped off at every stage of our journey to the cape but we were immediately calmed once we saw where we were staying. We had booked a cottage at a place called Fat Monkey’s which cost K2,000 each (£8), I went straight over to the fridge that was in the kitchen (my first fridge in 7 weeks!) and had a photo with it. We then decided to go for a little walk, 20 yards from our front door was the beach... beautiful golden sand and a view to die for! We met a Swedish couple who we had got talking to back at Doogles a couple of nights before and discussed how weird it was to be staying at the same place once more. After only 10 minutes we were approached by a man with a list of activities that we could do, and only 30 minutes after that we were on a boat heading for a little deserted island where we could go snorkelling and feed an eagle. It was my first time snorkelling but I soon got used to it and soon loved looking through the crystal-clear water to the thousands of coloured fish that swam beneath me. We boarded the boat again just as the sun was setting and I got a few decent pictures of the sun disappearing into the lake. Once back on shore we had dinner and continued chatting to the Swedish couple about our plans. We realised we never found out their names properly but we think the guy was called Moss and we have named the girl Ulrika because it sounds Swedish!! We arranged we would meet them for breakfast the next morning at 6:30 which would give us enough time to make it to Monkey Bay.

The ferry from Monkey Bay left once a week, at 10 on a Friday morning so we arrived with an hour to spare and bought tickets. I bought a 1^st class ticket to Nhkotakota where I would be getting off and meeting Anthony, Jen and Julia, whereas the girls were going all the way to Nkhata Bay which would take nearly 2 days! Before we boarded the ferry I had just about enough time to buy my mum a present which I saw and knew she would like. It is a wooden frog that makes a noise if you play it’s back… I paid K1000 (£4) plus some dirty boxers that the guy wanted for some reason! Bargain, means I don’t have as much to wash now!! The ferry was beautiful, it looked like it was straight out of the 1930s with a steam funnel and dented, black metal-work. First-class just meant the deck of the ship, we didn’t have any beds or rooms but at least it was open and spacious. There were around 12 of us on the top deck with a bar and multiple chairs and benches. We set sail just after 10am and I was due to arrive in Nhkotakota at around midnight – perfect… a day of utter relaxing! There wasn’t much to do on the boat, except read, write and sunbathe in the beautiful hot sun – something I did a lot of! Whilst docked at one port we asked if we could go swimming, once we got the thumbs-up we decided that we were going to jump off the boat into the lake. I thought we were going to jump from the lowest deck but then one of the South African passengers managed to persuade me to jump from the roof… it was about 15 metres high!! I was joined by Sarah on the roof and we both were unsure of it so decided to hold hands and run for it however as we ran to the edge I suddenly stopped with fear but Sarah continued and jumped straight into the lake. She was not best pleased with me and it took me 4 attempts to trick my mind into jumping off the roof, so glad I did it in the end!! After the excitements we all sat together and chatted as we watched the sunset over the lake whilst passing many small islands and drinking beer… the day was wonderful. In the evening we joined the other passengers onboard and it reminded me of a scene from The Boat That Rocks as we all sat in a circle and talked about past experiences. The boat trip was perfect and was over far too quickly for my liking – at 2am I had to jump into a lifeboat that would take me to land. The whole thing seemed quite Titanic-y as it was chucking it down with rain, lightning, thunder and I looked over my shoulder at the boat I was saying good-bye to.

On the Saturday Anthony and I were reunited and we were soon joined by Jen and Julia who showed us around their town. We went to some hot springs that were indeed very hot, I dipped my toe in for a second and burned them! We then had a relaxing time on the beach and finished off the day by eating a delicious cheese-cake… lovely!

Anyway, the holiday was all but over and Sunday we planned to travel back to our home, which was around 200km away and in theory should only take about 7 hours. Instead we had a journey from hell, our bus never turned up and we caught a series of minibuses that either went slower than you could ever imagine or that broke down! Anthony lost his wallet on the last bus we got and had to stay over-night at Matt’s lodge as we arrived at midnight and there was no transport back. Eventually we reached home 23 hours after we were due to leave Nhkotakota! Fun times!!

So we were back at our placement teaching, well sort of. At the weekend we were off again, this time heading to Nkhata Bay to meet up with 15 of our friends to celebrate my 19^th birthday. We met many of them in Mzuzu and travelled back to where my adventure had all begun, back to the bay! After arriving at around 4pm on the day before my birthday I didn’t waste any time and I went straight into the lake for a refreshing dip. It was such a good feeling to be back at the bay, in a strange kind of way I had missed it but I would never change back! That evening, my birthday-eve we had a nice BBQ at Mayoka Village (our home for the 2 days) and followed it up with plenty of drinking at the bar. Later on we decided to walk into the town to soak up some of the “nightlife” of the bay, whilst there Claus tried to chat up a prostitute who he thought was a hairdresser – typical Claus. Rakesh bought me a rum that I downed as the clock struck midnight and everyone wished me a happy birthday, which was nice of them!

My birthday started off in a very traditional English way with heavy rain and a full English breakfast, however I don’t normally have to take malaria tablets back at home. I opened up the cards from my parents and my gran which made me feel of home in such a nice way. Then it was time for our boat trip that we had organised… we went all around the bay, did some snorkelling, cliff jumping and played beach football with some of the locals that we found. We spent about 4 hours on the trip and it was so incredibly relaxing, however a tad cold from all the rain!! The organisers were very kind and said that I could have to boat trip free as it was my birthday – a nice saving of K2,000! Once back on land I was treated to some lovely surprises by the other volunteers… Margo and Claus bought me 10 packs of my favourite biscuits (possibly the best present anyone could give me… I am a bit addicted to biscuits over here.) Also Chloe and Elizabeth had baked me some amazing peanut butter cookies on their open fire and made me a lovely poem. Anthony bought me some new earphones as my last pair had broken, whilst Sarah, Marcella and Jess had bought me a “family bracelet” which they were wearing the same and had made me a beautiful paper chain people thing of the four of us, each one with a message from the 3 of them. Finally all the volunteers had bought me chocolate cake which was so incredibly nice. During the whole day I was amazed with how generous they had all been and I didn’t miss home once – something I never thought would happen!

My birthday was also shared by a wedding going on at the place we were staying for the weekend. The bride was a barwomen who worked there so they had chosen to deck out the place with beautiful streamers and flowers. 200 people had been invited (they had all come to wish me a happy birthday really!!) and in the evening the place was packed with a lovely mix of locals and members of the English family. There was live music played by one man and a guitar who had the most amazing voice and sung some great songs including “How big is your lake, your lake is so big, so big, so big!” which really got the crowd going. I challenged some locals to a few games of pool – I lost but I am blaming my slight drunkenness for this! All in all it was such a brilliant birthday and I was again sad to leave everyone behind. Every time we all meet up I feel that we all bond so much and I know that in 4 months time I will have to say goodbye to a lot of the other volunteers for the last time.

Back at our placement things are going well, it is coming up to exam period so I am in the middle of writing all my exams for my classes which is long and tiresome. Also Anthony and myself have agreed to help out and type up all the other teachers exams, the Chichewa exam is quite tricky to type!! The other day whilst teaching I was writing on the blackboard when my class started to laugh, I looked round to find a cow had just wandered into my classroom and one of the girls had to chase it away – this is Africa!!

Anyway I do realise I have written more than 3,500 words which is quite a few and I should probably stop now. Sorry for the massive blog post but the past 3 weeks have been simply insane… I hope you enjoyed reading it and I will keep you updated as soon as possible with everything!

Living the Good Life

First of all I would like to apologise for the length of this post, but I haven’t had any internet access in 2 weeks and those 2 weeks have seen quite a lot happen in my life! So let’s go through the basics: We now live in a small rural village called Fulirwa in Chilumba in the far North of Malawi (about 75km south of the Tanzania boarder). Fulirwa isn’t what you would call “massive”, in fact it doesn’t have any shops and we have to travel to Uliwa to do our shopping, which is a 15 km’s away across a dirt track. I now teach at Fulirwa Common Day Secondary School which is very small, there are only 4 classrooms, a small library and a staff room! Before we arrived at the school there were only 6 other teachers (one of whom was away looking after his critically ill wife) so the teachers are very happy of our arrival as they were incredibly overworked. On the first day at the school we were given our subjects to teach during the next 5 months and I ended up with Maths form 3 (I was quite unhappy about this as this is equivalent to AS level in the UK and I got a grade D!), English form 1, Life Skills form 3 and Business Studies form 1 and 3 (very chuffed with this!). Overall I now teach 20 periods in a week plus a lot of planning for each subject so my days are nicely full whilst still having some time to relax in the evenings. Teaching here is quite tricky as you have to be prepared all the time, you can’t just have a “dossing” around lesson on the computers because there are no computers, and you can’t just tell them to finish the excercise in the books because they don’t have the book. You can’t give them lots of worksheets because there are no worksheets so you have to make sure you are 100% planned for each lesson, but it’s fun!

Our house is on the school site and looks quite western from the outside as it is made from brick and has many windows. Also on the inside it feels fairly western with big spacious rooms and a layout that you would find in the UK. However there is a major difference, there is no running water or electricity so the house has nothing in it…. No sinks, toilets, showers, baths, lights, tables, chairs. You name it and it’s not there! We are slowly filling the rooms, now we have a bed each in two separate rooms and many pots and pans. The boar-hole that we are using to drink, wash and cook from is about 1 minute away (5 minutes on the way back with a heavy bucket of water!!) At the start I found it difficult to carry the 12 litre bucket of water back but now I have been converted to carrying the bucket on my head which is surprisingly easy and avoid spillages! We cook on a coal fire outside of the front of house and we are now fairly decent at cooking – much better than the first day at least when I struggled to eat a bowl of rice that I cooked! My last attempt of cooking was delicious actually – boiled potatoes with a tomato, pepper, onion and spice sauce! I thought it was a bad stereotype that the Irish love potatoes but I can tell you it is 100% true as Anthony would eat potatoes all day, everyday if he could! Of course things aren’t always plain sailing and there are things that we are still having to adjust to… for example we are going through quite a lot of candles – about 2 a day which is quite annoying. And the only jam we have found in the town is sold in cans which tastes disgusting so we have changed to honey which is much more expensive and less nice. Also we have found it difficult getting eggs back from Ulewa to our house as they don’t come in boxes but just in bags and the journey home is a 20 minute drive along a very bumpy dirt-track… it ends in disaster most times! But these problems make a trip more fun, when coming to Malawi I didn’t want to be able to live an easy life, I wanted a challenge and a challenge is what I am getting!

The second day we were here we were introduced to all the 100 pupils in the school. They were all crammed in one small room and as we entered they started to sing some traditional African music to welcome us. The singing was absolutely beautiful, you know when you are just overwhelmed with awe, I could have listened to it for hours! Then we were introduced by the headteacher (who is possibly the nicest man in world) as “Mr David, from England and Mr Anthony from Ireland”. We have since got the children to use our surnames as “Mr David” is rather odd. After the formalities of the introduction we were treated to the students singing the national anthem which is very pretty – particularly sung by the pupils who were singing their hearts out!

As we are now more rural less and less people can speak English, this was a problem at first because my Chitumbuka was very poor – I could only say two words, “thank you” and “hello”. But over the past week I have been practicing at any point I can and I have improved dramatically however there is still more I can do! I can now hold the start of a conversation with someone, saying hello, how are you and being able to reply: “Matandala”… “Diné makola, yebo”. Also in my armoury I can ask how much something is: “zilinger” and a fair few other phrases. Back in Nkhata Bay it was very rare that someone spoke the local language to you but now I am used to it and I feel more in-touch with my Malawian side when I talk to a local in Chitumbuka!

Over the past week I have had my first experience of a traditional Malawian meal which I had been avoiding since being here. We were invited to the headteacher’s house for dinner and we had Nsima which is made from maize and water. It is a strange texture – I compared it to a cross between a cake and jelly as it does ‘wibble’ a bit! It doesn’t taste of much at all and is quite bland if you don’t mix it with some spice or vegetables. But overall the meal was lovely and we shared time with the headteacher whilst drinking a mug of cocoa and talking about a Malawian life. He is the most incredible man as he spends so much time working at the school but also he looks after 9 children, 15 chickens, 3 dogs, 5 guinea-fowl and 1 cat. He also spends quite a bit of time farming and trying to feed everyone which is so selfless of him. He spoke about wanting to get a degree before he retired but for him to do this he wants to be able to use the internet, so Anthony and myself have volunteered ourselves to help improve his computer skills – the least we can do after he has been so generous to us.

Before we arrived at our school in Fulirwa we stayed the weekend at Matt’s lodge, who is our country manager. The place was a bit of luxury with a bar, king-size beds each, some lovely food and a view you could die for. Matt houses many Malawian children who he cares for and we were introduced to them in the evening, they were all incredibly lovely and we spent many hours with them playing games of “Connect-4”, “Battleships” and of course “Boa’s”. Over the weekend we were joined by Chloe and Elizabeth who live 10 minutes from Matt’s and also Anthony who is about 30 minutes away. Meeting up with them was great as they gave us some good tips for living the basic life and also where to get all our shopping from. We now live about 20km away from Chloe & Elizabeth and Anthony & Lycarion so it is a nice community of the Brits (and one Irish who is fairly British!!)

All bets were lost in the “1^st person to get malaria” race as most people bet either Anthony or myself due to the insane amount of bites we have both received! However Elizabeth feel ill with malaria during the week which was quite scary but she was incredibly brave and within 3 days she was back to her usual self. But the whole episode has bought up how careful we need to be but almost how lucky we will be to avoid malaria.

February and the move up north has bought incredible heats. Temperatures must be hitting mid-to-high-30s, surely and I have been sunburnt a fair few times now. I hear that it is freezing back home with much snow across the whole of the country – at the moment I can’t imagine anything cooler than 20 degrees!! The hot days has bought problems with my sleeping, and although I now have a lovely mosquito net that works, my sleep is poor as it is so hot! Another thing that we have noticed since the move is the brightness of the moon! I have never seen the moon so bright and it is bright enough to form very visible shadows and I don’t even need a torch whilst walking to the toilet and back.

We already had a trip to Blantyre planned this weekend for Hannah’s surprise birthday weekend, I was so excited in the run-up to the weekend as I was desperately needing a shower and some nice western food! However I am not looking forward to the trip down to Blantyre as we are going on an overnight bus from Mzuzu that will take about 13 hours of driving – ouch. But after only 2 days of teaching we were told that the next week was a school holiday for most schools across the country – we couldn’t believe it, this meant that we had over a week off from school to do what we wanted. I don’t actually know what we are going to do next week but our possible choices are to climb Mount Mulunje which stands at an impressive 3,002m tall or go on a safari down by Blantyre. Apparently the mountain is quite challenging and will take 1 day to climb, 1 day of roaming around on top and then 1 day for the descent!  I don’t mind which one we choose as both of them will be incredible and hopefully I will get some really lovely photos. Also we are planning to go to Nhkotakota to stay with Jen and Julia for few days which should also be good fun and I am looking forward to some proper food that doesn’t involve potatoes for once!

This week I have been planning my birthday which I am dead excited for. I have organised a trip to Nkhata Bay and 17 of the other volunteers are coming for the weekend of 24^th and 25^th February. I have managed to book the 18 of us into a lovely place in Nkhata Bay that is quite touristy but has an awesome bar and a good night-life all for MK1,300 (£5) per night, pretty decent I feel. It should be good to go back to Nkhata Bay, but this time as a tourist… I will definitely have to visit our favourite restaurant with the lovely waiter, and I will need to go back to the shop where the lady was trying to set me up with her daughter (just because they gave me free biscuits of course!) Hopefully it will be quite a decent birthday and I won’t miss home too much, it seems crazy that around this time last year I was in Bangladesh celebrating my 18^th birthday – so much has happened in 12 months.

I have now been in Malawi for 6 weeks and I have been thinking through all the things that have changed in that time. Quite an awful lot! I have lived in 5 places and got to know countless of lovely people. I have spent all the 6 weeks with Anthony which has been very intense but as of now we haven’t fallen out which I think is pretty remarkable. My eating habits have definitely changed and I am quite happy to finish off a whole plate of rice without thinking about it. I have also discovered a craving for biscuits and eat 1 pack a day on average!! I now like eggs and eat around 2 a day, which is more than I have eaten in the rest of my life. I have already read two of my fours books that I have bought out to Malawi and I am looking at Anthony’s Kindle with great envy as he has around 100 books on it! I have got to the stage where I am comfortable spending a week or two without the internet, where I couldn’t spend more than an hour or two without going online back at home. There are many things I do miss though – football is a big miss and I am so out of touch with what is going on in the Premier League! I feel like I don’t know any world events that are going on and I am considering buying a radio so I can listen to BBC World Service.  And also I miss chocolate massively – how I wish I could devour a whole packet of Penguins right now!

The next 2 weeks for me are going to be fantastic I feel with lots of travelling and seeing all my Lattitude friends around the country. I will update you guys on how things are going as and when I can. All I can say is a massive thankyou for actually reading these posts, I have been watching my blog views go up and up and I can’t believe people are actually that interested in what I am doing.

So for now I will say goodbye!

Nkhata Bay Boys Secondary School: Shirts vs. Skins match report.

 

Nkhata Bay Boys Secondary School: Shirts vs. Skins match report.

Friday 27^th January 2012.

Both Shirts and Skins went for a traditional 4-4-2 approach going into the game and my team (the Shirts) decided to put me up-front, obviously they had never seen me play football before!! I have never played as a striker before and so I was quite excited about being given the opportunity to show off my talents (or lack of talents)! My excitement quickly changed to nerves as the game kicked off as I felt under pressure with at least 60 of my students watching my every move. I initially started to play a role of sitting on the last defender and calling for a long-ball over my head to run on to… however they don’t seem to know what a long-ball is and had to quickly adapt my style of play. I then changed to a more Theo Walcott role, bombing down the right flank and looking for through balls – however I don’t have much pace so my influence was limited! Having said that I had the first proper chance of the game as I gambled on a 50-50 ball and somehow won possession from the defender, I was then through on goal – within the penalty area. I had never been in this position before and I tried to be too clever with a dinky touch with the outside of my right foot… the shot had little power on it and the keeper managed to get a hand to it. Chance wasted!

The Shirt’s defence seemed to be in good shape as we had cleverly chosen the biggest guy to be our centre-back, however he did have a tendency to try and dribble his way out of defence (he was wearing Arsenal shorts – probably where he got this idea from!) With the Skin’s not having a proper chance we managed to break their defence once more… this time the sports prefect ran through their defence with amazing skill, Messi like in some ways as he shifted the ball from one foot to the other. He then calmly finished off the move with a powerful shot in the bottom right-hand corner of the goal. Shirts 1 – 0 Skins.

After about 30 minutes of play my legs started to seize up and this seemed to be the same for the whole of the Shirts. The defending got sloppy and suddenly we couldn’t get the ball out of our own half. Eventually the ball worked its way out to the right wing and with a bit of trickery the youngster managed to lob a ball into the box, it worked its way to Anthony who got his head to it (probably because he was about a foot taller than the students). The ball then bounced perfectly for the Skin’s centre-forward to finish the ball nicely into the back of the net (there weren’t actually any nets!!) Shirts 1 – 1 Skins.

Soon after the goal the game became a scrappy affair, mostly dominated by the midfield. But then there was some nice play along the right wing by the Shirt’s – which involved me and the ball landed at my feet just inside the penalty area. Immediately my head was full of different ideas, but quickly ruled out passing and decided to go for goal myself. This time I put power behind my shot and aimed for the top corner, but I leant back far too much and the ball sailed about 2 foot over the bar. I landed on my backside and got a large jeer from the crowd – I think they quite liked to see their teacher on the floor, in a heap!

After about 1 hour of play I realised that there must not be half-time which I was longing for as by this time my legs were really seizing up and I was now playing the Zigic role (walking a lot and not bothering to defend at all!!) My head was starting to throb as I became dehydrated in the blistering sun. I gave it one final effort as I chased down a defender who was taking his time to clear his lines. Even though I was practically walking at him I somehow closed down his clearance and the ball bounced kindly for me and I was through on goal once more. This time I had none of my team around me so I had no option to pass, my mind was made up – I was going to have to go for goal. I ran closer and was surprised when the goalkeeper didn’t come to close me down, once I was about 5 yards from goal I launched a powerful shot into the bottom left-hand corner. It flew in and suddenly I was filled head to toe with adrenaline… the crowd cheered and I felt the need to whip off my shirt and wave it around my head like a mad man! Everyone seemed to appreciate my enthusiasm and I was greeted back to the centre with my team high-fiving me! The feeling was so good.

 Shirts 2 – 1 Skins

From that moment on the Skins didn’t see the ball much. There was a lovely passage of play for about 5 minutes where the Shirts passed it around the Skins as if they weren’t there. It was great to be part of a team playing such good football and suddenly the chances seemed to come thick and fast. This time when I went through on goal I passed it back to my oncoming peer who took a shot from just inside the box but somehow managed to balloon the ball over! What a sitter. Then the ball went out to the left hand side and I called for the ball in the middle, the cross was whipped in and came straight towards me. Full of confidence from my goal I tried to emulate that Paolo Di Canio volley for West Ham, the result didn’t go as I planned and the ball flew towards the corner flag. I put my head in my hands and turned my back to the play. The next time I looked round the sports prefect had the ball on the outside of the penalty area and with great power he blasted the ball into the top corner of the goal. I still want to claim an assist for this goal but Anthony tells me I am being silly!

Shirts 3 – 1 Skins.

The game then became slow as after an hour and a half of high-tempo football in 30 degree heats without a break tends to get to you. The final whistle sounded and we had won, a deserved victory for the Shirts.

Final score: Shirts 3 – 1 Skins.