I am now over one-third of the way through my Malawian adventure, pretty incredible really as it honestly feels just like yesterday that I was saying goodbye to my friends in Wetherspoons and traveling to Heathrow. Having said that, if I look back at all the things I have done in the past two months and how much I have changed the way I live this is also hard to believe. For example, I am now completely used to teaching a 40 minute lesson, cooking on the coal burner, washing clothes by hand and used to going to bed at 9pm for a 6am start! There are things that I am starting to crave though, silly things like iced-buns, Gavin and Stacey and a shower. But there are definitely things that I will miss when I get home; I don’t know how I will live without a plate full of rice every evening and the endless amount of smiley children that are around everywhere. Maybe I should do a Madonna and start adopting random Malawian children?
I have realised that I haven’t actually told you much about my placement and what I do on an average day so I will tell you what an “average” day is in my life at the moment! Each morning I get awoken at 6am by my alarm, although I am normally awake as my body clock is getting used to the early starts! I quickly make myself breakfast which consists of a jam sandwich and remember to take my malaria tablet – all important stuff! At about 6:45 I make my way over to the staff room which is about 50 yards from our front door, and then I panic for the lessons I have during the day!! Everyday I have 4 lessons out of Maths Form 3, Commerce Form 1, Business Form 3, English Form 1 and Life Skills Form 3 and lessons last 40 minutes. In my Form 1 class there are 35 students whereas in my Form 3’s there are just 17 as most people move to a better school once they pass their JCE’s in Form 2! The school day ends at 1:20pm but I am normally finished by 12 noon. Lunch is normally either another jam sandwich or the leftovers from last nights meal! On Monday’s after school it is sport and I go to the local football field which is about 3km from us and join in with the football training until 4pm or so. On Tuesdays I have Scrabble Club and Thursday’s it is Business Enterprise (I will go on to describe them later on…). Also on Monday’s and Friday’s there is a school assembly at the end of the day, in which all the school is bundled in one classroom ready for the teachers to arrive. Assemblies start with a song from about 6 students who have simply incredible voices – I am going to record them next time! And then the headteacher gives a sort-of sermon from the bible and then gives out notices. Assemblies normally last about 30 minutes and close with everyone singing the national anthem – again, beautifully sung! At around 4:30pm we start cooking on alternate days, we have to cook nice and early as it gets dark at 6:30pm and cooking in the dark isn’t fun! It normally takes around 1 ½ hours from starting cooking to eating which is much improved from when we arrived. Once we have finished eating then I will either plan lessons, read my book or eat biscuits – I normally end up doing the latter two! We have 3 buckets that are our lifeline, we leave 2 out to collect rain water and make sure one is filled up with water from the bore-hole just for drinking. In an average week I would wash my clothes once which takes around 40 minutes, however I am still pretty rubbish at removing stains (I hope mum can save my clothes once I get home!). Over the past couple of weeks I have not been washing myself at home as it takes too long and is so unrewarding – instead I wait until the weekends when I go down to the lake and take my shampoo and have a wash/swim! It may not be very hygienic but it’s the lazy way of living!
We live in a little village called Fulirwa which is very tiny and about 15km from the nearest town of Ulewa. Fulirwa only has a few small shops that sell soya pieces, soaps, eggs and of course cokes so we have to do most of our shopping in Ulewa. The “centre” of Fulirwa is a strange little outdoors bar which always has around 5 or 10 men getting completely hammered on alcohol sachets, no matter what time of the day! I walked past there at 7:30am on a Tuesday morning and there were 2 men who were completely wasted, drunkenly chatting to me. The road from Fulirwa to Ulewa is even worse than Isle of Wight roads as it is just a dirt track with many, many potholes! If you are lucky enough to get a truck or bus then the journey can be done in 30 minutes but recently, due to the petrol crisis, vehicles are coming harder to find and normally I have to travel in using bicycle taxis which take around 1 hour and are completely unsafe! I normally make the trip in on Wednesday afternoons to pick up some groceries and then again at the weekend for whatever reason – normally to get away from the village!
Over the past couple of weeks it has been all about teaching and getting ready for exams coming up next week. Teaching is going well now, I love my Form 3’s and there are so many characters in the class… there is Gertrude who sits at the front and answers all the questions – loudly! There is Steven who is such a joker and larks around all the time, but is a good student; Samsung who tries his hardest but will never be quite there in terms of academics. There is a row of quiet girls who I am starting to think are the brightest in the class, Neema and Merina in particular who are always getting good grades! My favourite subject with them now is maths as I am confident with the stuff I am teaching them and I can actually feel them improving all the time. My Form 1’s are also lovely and teaching Commerce to them is good fun as they are starting to pick up what I am saying and applying it to other things. The class seems like there is a massive split between boys and girls, the boys answer all the questions and are on-the-ball all the time whereas the girls sit quietly and seem to need extra help all the time. I keep wondering whether this is because they are shy or whether this is the case all across Malawi as boys are educated more at a younger age, who knows? Anyway, teaching English is a struggle… they seem to have a strange mix of knowledge as they know some tricky stuff but then sentence structure isn’t easy for them. Their spelling always amuses me as they always get their ‘r’ and ‘l’ mixed up… I gave them a spelling test and all got “play” and “pray” the wrong way round and a couple of interesting ways of spelling ‘rubbish’… “labech”! But overall teaching is going well and I am fairly confident about their end-of-term exams.
I have started two after school clubs which I am quite excited about. The first one is Scrabble Club, which is going well. I found four Scrabble boards in the schools library and thought it would be a good thing for the students to learn. On the first club day we had 7 pupils turn up and then the day later we had 17 show their faces, which was a bit tricky as we only have room for 16 on the games. The younger kids in form 1 and 2 aren’t great at all but at least they try, they make simple words like ‘are’ and ‘me’ but can’t seem to grasp some of the rules of the game. However the form 3’s and 4’s are getting quite good at it which is excellent as the game helps their English tremendously! I have started a Scrabble Championship, the winner of each game gets 10 points, 2nd gets 7, 3rd gets 3 and 4th gets 1… they seem to lovely the idea of competition but I still need to think of a decent prize for the winners at the end of the year. The other club I have set up is called “Business Enterprise” and we are basically pretending to set up a little business. So many of my form 3’s want to go into business but their general knowledge of the subject is terrible so I thought I would try and give them some practical experience. We are creating a school tuck-shop and in the coming weeks I will be teaching them how to write business plans, budget, do cash-flow forecasts etc. This idea came from Miss Jones and Miss Reed, my business teachers all the way back in year 10 when I pretended to set up a business back then – so thank you! They have carried out market research and found out what the students what to be sold in the tuck shops and they have since made colourful graphs showing the data. We have decided job roles: manager, sales, marketing and HR and next up I am teaching them what a Gantt Chart is! Let’s hope they do well in this and at the end of the year they can give a presentation to the school and what they have done.
My birthday was definitely the start of the rainy season… it may have been about 2 months late but the rainy season is now here, which is great news as their crops were beginning to fail again. It rains just about everyday now, from small spots of rain to giant storms – one of which we had on one Sunday which was excellent as the rain filled up our 3 buckets within one hour. The rain was so intense that time that every path became a stream and our back yard was under about 3 inches of water, which was too tempting not to go out and play in. The temperature doesn’t seem as vicious as it was before and I can feel my tan lessening as the days go on – hopefully it will improve again once we are on holiday. Everyone seems to be relieved that the rains have eventually come, and so they should be as the vast majority of people around us are farmers and their lives depend on this rainy season… long may it continue.
Since we have moved to our new placement I have looked in envy at Chloe and Elizabeth’s cooking. All they have is a wood fire with a few pots and pans and yet they are able to make cakes, scones and flapjacks. So over the long-weekend that we had I made it my challenge to try and emulate their successes. Whilst in Mzuzu I bought some flour and sugar as well as some mandasi mix – and excitedly came home with my goodies. Cooking on a coal fire is different from cooking at home, instead of just chucking the cake mixture in the oven and leaving it to cook on 180 degrees for 20 minutes; you have to make two fires. A small fire at the bottom, then put your tin on the fire and then make a larger fire on top of the tin… this took some time to get sorted but eventually I did it. It wasn’t the most precise cake I have ever made as we have no measuring devices so I just bunged in the ingredients and hoped for the best… After about 20 minutes of worrying and stoking the fires I lifted off the lid and there was a cake! Like a proper cake! And it tasted like a cake, a proper cake. You have no idea how proud I was – 1 month ago I didn’t know how to start a coal fire and now I am baking cakes!! I made my second cake later in the week, this time it rose properly and tasted incredible, particularly with a layer of strawberry jam on top! My next challenge is to make mandasi’s which are balls of deep-fried dough – the ones you buy from bakeries and on the street are delicious so I will hopefully be able to make them soon but after failing at making pancakes the other day I am quite worried and don’t want another cooking disaster on my hands. I will update you with how my baking skills go in the next blog!
We have also made a great addition to our dinners in the evening after we have found soya pieces which add to a meal well. They are about 40% protein which is excellent news as we had been lacking protein desperately from our cooking. Instead of just boring rice with a tomato sauce we now have rice, soya pieces and a tomato sauce with peppers, onions and garlic – getting fancier all the time! We have bought a lot of fresh spices that we are experimenting with; Anthony likes to put a lot of chili powder in his sauce I have noticed!! All the time our meals are evolving and my cooking ability has improved dramatically which is excellent, considering I have 4 years at University ahead of me! Every time I go into a city with a good market I get excited about all the food on offer, last week I picked up some carrots and lemon from Mzuzu. Next time I may try and involve cabbage into the meal at some point which will be a nice change. Also, yesterday we had a new arrival to our household… the headteacher needed more space in his house to fit his 11 children that he is looking after, so he bought us a dining table and five chairs. The deal is perfect, he gets more space and we get furniture which is incredible! After just 5 minutes of the table being in the house it was full with food that was previously ant-infested on the floor. We are now eating our meals at the table, under candle-light… how romantic!
We are starting to get a few more animals in our house which is always interesting. We still have a tone of ants in every room and we are still trying to work out a way of getting rid of them. Our most successful way of killing the ants so far is with a lighter and deodorant and burn the annoying things! This worked brilliantly until the flame got out of hand and completely burnt all my arm hair off. But recently more and more animals have been flooding in, first there was a mouse in some water we left on the floor. I woke up early on a day off to find this mouse struggling to get out of a washing-up bowl we had left on the floor… Anthony had to deal with this one. Then there was Ed the millipede (named after Ed Miliband) who was MASSIVE! Anthony thought it was a snake at first but when it turned out to be just a millipede he removed it from the house. The other… more pressing issue we have now is a scorpion! We saw it crawling around my feet the other day and ran to put on our shoes, by the time we got back the scorpion was gone – now we have to wear shoes all the time instead of comfy flip-flops which is a bit annoying! As yet our house isn’t as bad as the one we left back at Nkhata Bay – no infestation of mosquitoes or bugs but it’s getting there, slowly.
It is coming to the end of the term and therefore we have been busy preparing end of term exams for our Form 1’s and 3’s. I have five classes in total and I have also been typing up the exams of the other teachers onto the school laptop which is long-winded but harmless. The exam season started on Wednesday and goes on for one week, as soon as I finish marking and writing a report card for all the students then the holiday begins… we are hoping to be on the move on the Thursday or Friday! We have left all the planning to Jen and Julia, which has been difficult for me as I love planning but I can trust them to come up with an awesome plan – and they have succeeded. So the plan… 9 of us are meeting up in Lilongwe on the 24th March and staying the night, then heading off early in the morning on a bus into Zambia – could be interesting! The bus continues all the way to Victoria Falls which will take a day or so, we may have to stay over night in the capital of Zambia, which is apparently pretty dodgy! Anyway, we intend to spend a few days at Victoria Falls – seeing all the sights and doing some activities like bungee-jumping or white-water-rafting! We may also possibly jump over the border to Zimbabwe to see the falls from the other side, apparently worth a visit. Then we will head back through Zambia on a sleeper-train to a wildlife reserve which is said to be the best in Southern Africa! The plan is to spend a couple of days there doing safari sort of things before traveling back into Malawi and heading down south to Blantyre which is in striking distance of Mount Mulanje which we are hoping to climb. The ascent is quite tricky according to the guide book and will take one day to scale, spend one day on top and then one day back down again! After that the plans become a little faded, we may possibly spend a few nights at Cape Mclear and then head up to Chilumba on the ferry or I may go and do some independent travel – Mozambique is pretty close, and it would be another country ticked off the list of places to visit!! So overall the holiday is going to be pretty packed – just the way I like it, with an enormous amount of stuff to do… I really don’t have a clue how I am going to pack for a 3 week holiday that includes mountaineering and safari in just one backpack.
This weekend I am going to a camp down south for Alice’s 18th birthday. Apparently it is a little village just like ours and nice and rural. I am meeting up with the Bwengu Girls (Sarah, Marcella and Jess) and traveling down with them as Anthony has been invited to the capital by the Irish Embassy for St. Paddy’s Day – I wanted an invite too but I don’t think an Englishman would be very welcome in there (particularly when we beat them in the rugby on the same day!) There should be a good few of us camping for the birthday party so it should be a nice weekend away before our real holiday starts!
I really can’t seem to get blog posts short anymore… this one I think is my longest yet and I have a feeling my next one could be quite a biggy too! Thank you for reading and if you have any questions then please comment and I will try and answer them next time. Also if you want to send me any letters then all are most welcome, just send me a quick email and I will give you my address! All letters will be replied to of course.